How to Hang Art
Key factors to consider + step-by-step instructions for selecting the right art dimensions for your space, and installing art safely on your walls.
Part of our Art Buyers’ Questions, Answered series.
Intro
OK, so your new art piece has arrived (hopefully from ArtMatch 😏) and it’s time to get it on the wall.
Customers typically start thinking about the installation process ON install day, despite our advice to think about this BEFORE making the purchase. While we agree that art should be purchased with the art in mind first and foremost, it is nonetheless important, throughout your search, to have at least a rough idea of where the art might end up — even if it’s just narrowed down to a handful of walls or a single room.
Proper placement not only maximizes the aesthetic appeal of the art, but in many cases it can positively impact preservation and longevity.
We thus created this comprehensive guide of key factors to consider when selecting and installing original art on your walls. It will be a helpful companion before, during, and after your art purchasing journey.
DISCLAIMER: these are rules of thumb.
Think of these as helpful tips based on best practices, not strict rules. Sometimes, the best placements are the unexpected ones. At the end of the day, it’s your space, your art, and your vision.
Table of Contents
Artwork by Benjamin Gibson
Choosing the Right Size Art for Your Wall
This topic deserves a full report of its own, but we’ll cover the highlights here. We decided to start with it because it’s helpful to consider it before art shopping. The size of the art you’re looking for impacts the budget and the artist(s) whose work will be available to you.
Determining “Available Area for the Art”
Step one is to figure out the total size (height + width) of the available area for the art. This should be the wall space that the art could logically be placed within. The possible area for art is not necessarily the same size as the wall that the art is going on. It should exclude wall areas covered by furniture if the art is going above furniture, or any other area the art would not logically be placed over.
Here are a few things to consider when determining the available area for the art:
Rule #1 for Available Area for Art: 8-12 Inches Between Art Edge and Anything Else
This should not only apply to the furniture below the art, but also wall edges / corners, any other art on the walls (unless the pieces are intentionally meant to be close together, such as diptychs or gallery walls), or other appliances such as clocks or light switches.
8-12 inches ensures the art does not feed detached from nearby elements, while still allowing it to breathe.
Rule #2 for Available Area for Art: Width Roughly ⅔ to ¾ the Width of Furniture Below
Regarding rule #2, We often see clients trying to match the art width to the width of the furniture below it. We recommend the art to be framed within the furniture, and thus to be slightly smaller in width. Both elements being equal width results in too much symmetry and not enough contrast.
Reference Image 1: Determining the available area for art for different wall sizes, furniture arrangements, etc. Also illustrates how the aspect ratio (HxW) of the art should roughly match the aspect ratio of the available area for the art.
Artwork by Chester Lees (L), Patricia Lortie (M), and Alexandre Da Silva Maia (R)
Sizing the Art Based on Available Area
Once you’ve determined the height and width of your available area for art, you are ready to figure out the art sizing for the wall.
Consider the following rules of thumb…
Rule of Thumb for Art Sizing #1: Match Art Proportions to the Available Area for Art
- If the height of the possible area for art is roughly equal to the width, the aspect ratio is 1H : 1W. That means art with a roughly square aspect ratio (e.g. 36”H x 36”W) is a great proportion for the wall.
- If the height is taller than the width, say an aspect ratio of 2H : 1W, the art should generally be taller than it is wide (e.g. 48”H x 24”W).
- If the width is greater than the height, say an aspect ratio of 1H : 2W, the art should generally be wider than it is tall (e.g. 18”H x 36”W).
This doesn’t have to be an exact match, of course! Refer back to Reference Image 1 for visual examples.
Rule of Thumb for Art Sizing #2: Cover 50-75% of the Available Area for Art (Height and Width)
Some caveats here on the lower end. Many people don’t mind going smaller than 50%. In fact, a popular trend is to put very small art on large walls, exaggerating the space around the art, and forcing more attention to it.
On the upper end, however, we do not recommend significantly exceeding 75% of the available space. Overcrowding the art takes away from its impact.
Use this range (50% – 75%) to define the minimum and maximum height and width ranges for the art. This will help narrow down the options while you’re browsing.
Artwork by Susan G. Abbott
How High to Hang Art
Standard Height: Centre Artwork at Eye Level (57”–60”)
This is the rule of thumb assuming you have no furniture beneath the art. In this case, the centre of the artwork should be 57 – 60 inches from the floor, which aligns with an average height person’s eye level. This ensures viewers can get right up close to the artwork and will not have to crane their necks to see the details.
Example of art vertically centred at eye-level from floor. Artwork by Cecile Albi
At times, especially for taller pieces, this means the bottom edge of the art will be quite close to the ground. (Note that if it’s less than 8 inches from the ground, you’ve picked your Available Area for Art incorrectly). This close proximity to the ground can feel wrong, but we assure you, it isn’t!
Many customers default to hanging their art too high. But rest assured that museums and galleries use these exact guidelines. This is a widely accepted standard.
Adjusting for Furniture Placement (Above Sofas, Beds, Mantels)
When hanging art above furniture, keep 8 – 12 inches of space between the top of the furniture and the bottom of the artwork. This prevents the piece from feeling disconnected from other elements in the room, but also from feeling cramped. For very small art, furniture, and walls, you may be able to get away with less than 8”. For very large artwork, furniture, and walls, you may be able to get away with more than 12”.
Example of art at a comfortable distance above furniture. Artwork by John Kaltenhauser
Adjusting for Different Rooms
Hallways & Staircases: Following Eye-Level Alignment Along a Slope
When hanging art along staircases, follow the natural incline, keeping the centre of each piece at a consistent eye level along the slope. This ensures a visually appealing, flowing arrangement.
Dining Room: Lower Placement for Seated Eye Level
Since people are mostly seated in dining rooms, you may wish to consider hanging the art slightly lower, such as 50 – 55 inches from floor to centre, so that it’s comfortably visible from a seated position.
Considerations for Presentation + Protection
Glare in Bright Rooms
For bright rooms, be aware of the potential impact of glare on the artwork’s visibility. Works with a glossy finish are likely to catch glare from any bright light sources in the area. This can impact visibility of the art. Some finishes which this can occur with include:
- Resin finished works
- Works on plexiglass substrate
- Photographs & prints on metal (aluminum dibond, chromaluxe)
- Encaustic paintings
- Acrylic paint with gloss mediums
- Any works that are framed under glass
When in doubt, ask the artist or gallery you’re purchasing from. It might be worth testing out the artwork in the space before committing.
If the work is on paper, it tends to be installed with a frame which usually has a glass layer for protection. This glass is subject to glare. For framed works on paper, we always recommend using AR70 Artglass (linked here) which is highly effective in preventing glare. This glass has a higher price point but we consider it essential — especially in bright rooms. If you don’t specifically request this glass from the framer, it won’t be provided.
Direct Sunlight
Exposure of your artwork to direct sunlight is generally not recommended as it can cause fading, discolouration, and material degradation over time. The follow mediums are most vulnerable to sunlight damage:
- Paper-based works (watercolours, prints, pastels, photographs, drawings) – Extremely light-sensitive, especially if created with fugitive pigments.
- Acrylic & Oil Paintings – Some pigments are more UV-resistant than others, but prolonged exposure can still cause fading and cracking.
- Textiles & Mixed Media – Dyes in fabric-based art can fade faster than painted works.
- Resin & Plexiglass Art – While these materials don’t fade, they can yellow or become brittle with excessive sun exposure.
The best protection against this is abstinence! But if avoiding direct sunlight is unavoidable, consider these protective measures:
- UV-Filtering Glass or Acrylic
- For framed paper-based works, use museum-grade glass (AR70, AR92, Optium Museum Acrylic) to block up to 99% of UV rays.
- If the artwork is highly valuable, consider conservation framing with UV-filtering acrylic.
- UV-Protective Varnish or Coating
- Many oil and acrylic paintings can be protected with a UV-resistant varnish (e.g., Gamvar, Golden UVLS).
- Works on paper do not typically use varnish, so glass protection is the best option.
- Window Films & UV-Blocking Shades
- UV-filtering window film can block up to 99% of UV rays while allowing natural light through.
- Sheer curtains or shades can help diffuse intense sunlight while maintaining brightness.
High-Traffic Areas
If the art is being installed in a hallway with high traffic, we recommend using D-rings instead of wires. This ensures that if it is brushed against, it will be secured from two anchor points which prevent it from getting displaced, swaying, or (god forbid!) falling.
Also avoid showcasing highly textured or 3-dimensional artworks in these regions, as they are easy to accidentally brush against and damage.
Heat
Be cognizant of installing artwork above a fireplace or in proximity to a radiator / heating element. Before doing so, measure the localized temperature while using the appliance to understand how hot it gets in the area. Check this temperature with the artist or gallery you’re purchasing from. Certain varnishes can protect against heat, but only within reasonable temperature ranges.
Humidity
If you are placing art in a bathroom with a shower which is subject to frequent high moisture levels, or if you are moving the art from a very dry to a very humid location, this can impact the art.
Mediums which are particularly vulnerable include:
- Works on Paper – Watercolours, prints, drawings, and photographs.
- Unvarnished Acrylic & Oil Paintings – Can develop mold in damp conditions.
- Wood Panels – Absorb moisture, leading to warping and mold growth.
If you can’t avoid placing the art in a humid environment, consider the following protections:
- Use Moisture-Resistant Framing
- Seal artworks in moisture-proof frames with silica gel packets inside.
- Opt for acrylic glazing instead of glass, which can trap condensation.
- Choose Humidity-Resistant Mediums
- Metal prints, ceramic, and glass-based art are better suited for humid areas.
- If using paper-based works, ensure they are fully enclosed in protective framing.
- Monitor for Signs of Damage
- Regularly check for warping, condensation inside frames, or mildew spots and relocate art if needed.
Artwork by Kat Honey
Now, The Hard Part: Installation
The difficulty of art installation is frequently overlooked. We will try to cover this topic in detail, but given our experience with the challenges of art installations, we know we are only scratching the surface.
If you’re feeling overwhelmed or unsafe by the prospect of installing yourself, source professional help. This is especially important for tall ceilings which require ladder usage, heavy artworks, high-value artworks, hard-to-access locations, or showcasing multiple pieces in series / gallery walls.
Your Tools Checklist
Measuring and Marking Basics
- Measuring tape to determine ideal placement.
- Level stick to ensure the artwork is straight.
- Painter’s tape, art putty, or a pencil (from best to worst) to mark placements before committing.
- Paper and pencil (or your phone) to note down some measurements
Installation Basics
- Hammer or drill for securing hooks or anchors, depending on the type.
- Anchors and screws, to provide additional support than a single nail in drywall.
- Measure the weight of your piece and purchase anchors rated accordingly (they are widely available in 10 lbs, 25lbs, 50 lbs).
- Stud finder to locate studs for heavier pieces.
- If art exceeds 30 lbs, studs are recommended.
- If art exceeds 75 lbs, multiple anchor points into studs or a French Cleat system are recommended. In both cases, professional installation is recommended.
- Ladder or step stool if you are installing at a height.
- A second person who can make sure your measurements are centred and straight from a distance, and to secure your ladder / step stool if using.
- Many people try to install art alone and we promise (from many failed attempts), it is always a mistake.
Specialty / Misc
- Laser level to ensure even alignment. This is especially useful for hanging multiple pieces, but also if you have a larger piece that requires more than one anchor. We consider this tool worth its weight in gold for art installation — especially one with a magnet so it can stick to the wall, saving your shoulders from holding a level stick steady.
- Tool belts are often overlooked but will save you from the risks and frustration of having to climb up and down your ladder all the time. Having your marking tool, your hammer / drill, and your screws / anchors available will make your life a lot easier.
- Rubber or felt bumpers which can be secured to the art (or walls) after the art is hung, to protect your walls from scratching and prevent the art from shifting.
Step-by-Step Installation Guide
Now, as we said at the start of this section, this is where things get too specific to cover each unique case. But after many years of doing this, here is our approach to wall art installation which works for generic cases, and if the artwork has a wire or D-rings on the back.
- Note down the height and width of your artwork.
- Note down the width of your available art area, which you determined earlier on in the guide.
- The horizontal centre point where your artwork will be situated is the midpoint of your available art area width (unless you’re intentionally hanging it off-centre). Note down the measurement of this midpoint.
- The vertical centre point where your artwork will be situated is determined one of two ways:
- If there is no furniture beneath the art, it should be 57” to 60” from the floor. You can also use your own eye-level.
- If there is furniture beneath the art, it should be 8” to 12” (depending how far from the furniture you want the bottom edge to be), plus half the vertical height of the art.
- Example: If you want the bottom edge of the art 8” above the top of the bed, and the artwork height is 48”, the middle point is 8” + 24” = 32” above the bed.
- Measure out and mark your vertical and horizontal centre points on the wall by placing a small piece of painter’s tape on that point. Re-measure the point after making the mark.
Finding and marking where the middle point of the art should be on the wall.
- You now have to figure out how far above the middle point of the art the wall anchor(s) has to be, so that the art hangs at this middle point. This approach is different depending on whether the artwork has D-rings, or has a wire.
- If the art has a wire… (see diagram below)
- Pull the wire taut on the back side of the art.
- Measure the distance from the centre of the wire pulled taut, to the top of the art. Note this value down.
- Take half the vertical height of the art, and subtract from it the number from the previous point.
- Example: If the distance from the centre of the wire pulled to the top of the art is 4”, and the art’s total height is 36”, the calculation is 18” (half of 36”) – 4” = 14”,
- The value from the previous point (14”) is the height ABOVE the earlier mark you place on the wall, where the anchor needs to be placed.
- Measure out this height above the previous marker, and place a second marker there.
- Insert your anchor into the wall at this measured point.
- If the art has D-rings… (see diagram below)
- Measure the distance from each D-ring to the left and right edge of the art. Note these values down.
- Half the artwork width, minus the values above, are the horizontal distances from the earlier mark you made on the wall from which you need to add new marks. Measure out these distances left and right from the original mark, and place new markers in these locations.
- Measure the distance from each D-ring to the top of the art. Ensure the D-rings are turned to the position they will be in when the art is hung. Note these values down. Do this for both rings to ensure they are installed evenly.
- Take half the vertical height of the art, and subtract from it the number from the previous point.
- Example: If the distance from the D-ring to the top of the art is 4”, and the art’s total height is 36”, the calculation is 18” (half of 36”) – 4” = 14”,
- The value from the previous point (14”) is the height ABOVE the earlier two left and right marks you place on the wall, where the anchors need to be placed.
- Measure out this height above the previous two left and right markers, and place two additional markers there.
Insert your anchors into the wall at these two measured points.
Too much text? refer to the images below!
How to use the wire or D-ring height on the back of the art to determine how high above the centre point of the art the wall anchor(s) need to be secured.
Conclusion
That’s it! This guide was long enough…
We hope it will help you feel more confident throughout your art collecting process — from shopping, buying, and prepping your new art for installation.
If you want us to write about some other topics, or feel that we missed something in this guide, feel free to let us know via the Contact Form at the bottom of the page.




